Epic Great Divide - Day 16

Wednesday, July 22, 2026

Beaverdam USFS Campground, Butte, MT to Little Joe Campground, Wise River district, MT

35.9 miles/57.8 kilometers

2966 feet/904 meters elevation gain

Primitive camping. Vault toilet, no showers but water pump (very cloudy), no electricity, no potable water.

Elevation – 2820 feet

Fleecer Ridge. Woah, baby! This route began with an eight mile climb, the last ½ kilometer bike-hikeable only. Once at the top of the climb, the route leveled out only temporarily before the ridiculously dangerous descent began. At the top – the Fleecer Ridge proper, there were hundreds of thousands of yellow, purple, white, pink, and orange flowers. There was also an incredible view of green forests and mountain crest after mountain crest.

The descent. Nope, nope, nope! It literally was a 30% grade that was smushy sand rutted double track with large jagged rocks. It was quite difficult to walk down with the bike because you had to apply the brakes which then made the bike slide sideways next to you. The method that worked best for me was basically to pray, squat, hop like a frog and simultaneously do a squeeze-release action on the bike brakes. Rumor has it that the only crazies who attempt to ride down the descent are those Red Bull Pros who are covered in full body armor plates! I tried to capture that part of the route in a pic but it in no way looks as terrifying as it felt!

Following the descent, there was fairly nice five mile gravel section that led into an itty bitty junction named Wise River. There was one mercantile store that also functioned as a gift shop and one pump gas station. Many of us stopped for an ice cream bar and at the check-out, were given Wise River Mercantile stickers to affix to our water bottles. I told them they should sell t-shirts that proclaimed, “I successfully walked my bike down Fleecer Ridge!”

The rest of the route was essentially non-eventful but ever so beautiful. Our campsite was semi-primitive (water pump with sludgy brown water, vault toilet, creek, no electricity) but it was cool. It had many pine trees that were very, very tall and the ground was blanketed with pine needles. It was very quiet and peaceful!

About 4:00 pm, I found my way to the creek to wash my hair and rinse off the dust of the ride. I have this 20 liter expandable bucket type of bag called the Kitchen Sink that I filled with river water. I then knelt on the ground next to the river and washed my hair in “the sink.” Yikes! Brain freeze! And at least a hundred mosquitos enjoyed munching on my arms and legs while I tried to lather my locks with creek-safe soap that doesn’t lather. Oy! I did think to take a camp chair with me, though, and I was able to bathe pretty comfortably surrounded by many mountain flowers. It smelled like a spa but was way prettier!

Unfortunately, while I was finishing up, a thunderstorm came up out of nowhere. There was roughly thirty minutes of lightening and thunder and then a steady rain fell through the night until about 5:00 am. Temps dropped significantly but everyone made the best of it. After dinner, half the group went to the Elkhorn Hot Springs for a couple of hours and the rest of us stood under a large Easy-Up tent and chatted with hot cocoa, tea, and a bottle of Zinfandel. It was nice! And as before when it rained at the Llama Ranch, I slept very deeply. A fun day!